Alexis and Eric in front of their house. (David La Spina photo for the New York Times Magazine)

Chirstine Muhlke’s profile of Soul Food Farm for the New York Times Magazine just came out this past Sunday, on Thanksgiving weekend. Titled “Field Report: Learning about Community Supported Agriculture the Hard Way,” it focuses on the dismal economics of a small farm like Soul Food, and how something like a comparatively minor fire can almost kill a farm.

From the consumer’s point of view, Soul Food Farm looks as if it’s raking it in: eggs cost up to $8 a dozen, and meat retails at about $6.50 a pound. Outsiders aren’t afraid to voice their opinion. After the fire, an online detractor wrote that the farm should have more than enough cash to rebuild.

If people think that farmers are driving home from the market in BMWs, Koefoed said, “they should go visit the farmer and see how hard they’re actually working.” Even before she laid off two of her three employees after Eric lost his civil-engineering job, the mother of three was rising at dawn and working late to tend to her 8,000 birds, which roost in houses dotted around the scrubby land. Until she bought an egg-washer last year, she cleaned 1,800 a day.

Soul Food Farm operates on razor-thin margins. To bring in extra money, Koefoed is concocting a lavender-products business with a neighbor; plans for a cooking school are in the works; and she began a pilot project in which others raise her meat birds on their land. In October, she started a C.S.A., or community-supported agriculture program, selling her produce to people who might not be able to afford it in restaurants. Cutting out the middleman means she’ll get all of the much-needed proceeds. “This romantic vision of the poor farmer needs to be thrown out!” she said emphatically. “It’s not romantic to be poor. It’s a struggle.”

Naturally, Koefoed would like to struggle less. She’d also like to see the day when people realize that cheap food is a lie, and values have shifted enough so that those who pay $8 for a six-pack of beer or thousands for a plasma TV won’t “gripe about paying $8 for a dozen eggs.” Those dollars go back into the community, she said, not to some corporation raising robo-chicks. “This should really matter, because it’s going into your mouth and fueling your capacity to get through the day,” she said. “Food is the bottom line: we all need to eat every day. Then ultimately aren’t farmers the most important resource we have in this country?”

The article has goosed CSA sign-ups, so quite a few readers seem to agree with her. So did Andrew Simmons, in a warm post over at the SF Weekly blog.

Start your bidding engines — the Soul Food Farm Benefit Auction is now live. The auction “catalog” follows; there is an online form with which to place your bids.… after you read the instructions. Current high bids are in orange.

Soul Food Farm auction rules

• How it works: See something you like below? To bid, visit this simple Google Docs form. It lists all the prizes along with the minimum bid, and if the minimum has been met, the highest bid so far. Bids will be updated several times a day until Oct. 10 close.
• Auction end: Bidding will close at 4 p.m. PST Saturday, Oct. 10. Winners will be emailed later that night so they can hopefully attend the Soul Food Farm benefit party at Pizzaiolo on Sunday, Oct. 11, from 1-5 p.m. (Auction winners get in for free.) You do not have to be able to attend in person to win, although it will make collecting your prize easier.
• Collecting your prize: We will have the prizes in hand at the Pizzaiolo event to distribute. If you aren’t there, we’ll coordinate pickup with you. For services, we will put you in touch with the chef or professional to make arrangements. Shipping: If an item is not fragile or perishable and can be shipped, we are willing to ship within the U.S. as long as you pay the UPS/FedEx fee for trackable shipping.
• Payment: Bids are assumed to be made in good faith. You must pay either by check or PayPal by Oct. 12.
• Questions? Email bonnie@bonniepowell.com. And if all this looks too rich for your blood, check out the raffle instead — tickets are just $5 for the chance to win hundreds of dollars’ worth of dinners to fine restaurants, books, and lots more!

Headliners

Hot chicks (SFF1)
Five little baby laying hens from Soul Food Farm, mixed breeds including the Auracanas that lay the green/blue eggs, plus a bag of chick starter thrown in. Perfect for the would-be backyard egg farmer. (No minimum bid | Winning bid: $85)

Omnivore’s Delight package (MP1)
Maybe you—or someone you love—read “The Omnivore’s Dilemma” and now you only buy your meat from small farms (or their brand-new chicken & egg CSAs!) and your vegetables from the farmer’s market. You organized an “Eat-In” to protest school food. You think HFCS is commodity crack. Have we got the perfect gift for you (or your friend): Two tickets to the sold-out Nov. 4 City Arts Lecture with Michael Pollan (right) and the great agrarian philosopher his work was inspired by, Wendell Berry —PLUS a full set of Pollan’s books, signed and personalized just for you…or the lucky Christmas/Hanukah/birthday recipient of your choice. (Retail value: $150 + untold ag-tivist cool value | Minimum bid $200 | Winning bid: $500)

Eat & pitch Chronicle Books editor (CB1)
Attention all aspiring cookbook authors! Here’s your chance to get published. (Maybe.) Chronicle Books‘ Bill LeBlond will take you to lunch at a location of his choice (and his treat), and you can tell him why you should be the next Clotilde Dusoulier. The editorial director of food and drink at Chronicle Books, Bill is responsible for the 15 cookbooks Chronicle publishes each year. The first cookbook he edited was James McNair’s Cold Pasta, which launched McNair’s best-selling and much-imitated cookbook series. Bill publishes some of the best food writers in the country and has had the privilege of working with such outstanding authors as Joyce Goldstein, Anne Willan, Colman Andrews, Flo Braker, and Michael Chiarello. His books have been nominated for, and won, many IACP and James Beard Foundation cookbook awards. He is also a frequent speaker on publishing topics. (Retail value: Priceless. Do you know how hard it is to get time with this guy? | Minimum bid: $150 | Winning bid: $560)

Cheese master class (JF1)
Janet Fletcher (left), the cheese columnist for the San Francisco Chronicle and author of The Cheese Course and Cheese & Wine: A Guide to Selecting, Pairing, and Enjoying, will host a private guided cheese and wine tasting for six in her home in Napa Valley. In Cheese & Wine, Fletcher led readers on an international tour of 70 cheeses, exploring the best wine pairings and serving suggestions for cheese from Oregon’s autumnal Rogue River Blue to aromatic Brin d’Amour evocative of the Corsican countryside. Here’s your chance to take a private class—and taste some incredible cheeses—with one of the nation’s leading cheese experts. ($600 minimum bid)

Star skateboarder threads and gear (SJ1, SJ2, SJ3)
World-famous Vacaville-raised professional skateboarder Stefan Janoski (right, check out this video of his 360 flip!) has generously donated several items from his line of clothing and shoes, plus a skateboard. They are being auctioned in separate lots because they are specific sizes. Items are new, with tags. (Click to see larger version of photos)
• SJ1: Stefan Zoom Nike Shoes (size 9) and brown Analog T shirt (Size M) ($100 retail | $50 minimum bid)
• SJ2: Stefan Jeans (size 31) & white Analog t-shirt (size L) ($100 retail | $50 minimum bid)
• SJ3: Habitat Skateboard (trucks only, no wheels; available at any skate shop), Analog T-shirt (size L) and black Analog T-shirt (size L) ($100 retail | $50 minimum | Winning bid: $70)

Ringside seats at Chez / Guests in the Café (CP1 & CP2)

(CP1) Dinner for two at the kitchen table downstairs in world-renowned Chez Panisse. Watch Chefs Jean-Pierre Moulle and David Tanis cook up the local, seasonal magic that started this whole Bay Area delicious revolution. Includes signed copies of the Art of Simple Cooking and the Chez Panisse Café Cookbook. ($200 minimum | Winning bid: $800)
(CP2) Dinner for two in the Chez Panisse Cafe with a bottle of house wine ($100 minimum | Winning bid: $250)

SOLE foodie portrait session (BN1)
A one-hour portrait session at the Emeryville, CA, studio of Bart Nagel , whose portraits of CEOs and digerati have appeared in Time, Newsweek, Sports Illustrated, and the Red Herring, but who really likes shooting sustainable, organic, local, and ethical food & farming enthusiasts for the likes of Edible San Francisco, The Ethicurean, and himself. You will receive one glamorous headshot of your choice (including retouching if you wish it — ciao, crow’s feet!) as a high-resolution digital file to be used for your website, PR campaign, author photo, Facebook, or whatever. Makes a great birthday gift. (Retail $1,400 | $300 minimum | Winning bid: $400)

Eco-fabulous bone jewelry (HB1 & HB2)
A closed loop eco-system needn’t stop with whole animal cooking – you should wear their bones, too! Featured in Vogue Magazine, the Smithsonian and art galleries worldwide, this elegant bone jewelry made from cow bone – and the occasional pig, deer or lamb — is an ethically produced and affordable eco-luxury. Each piece was hand carved by the artist family of Haven Bourque, vice president of Straus Communications, working from their hydro-electric-powered artist community/organic farm in the foothills of the Carolinas. First, they made soup from the marrow bones; after lunch, the artistry began. Most of the bones came from neighboring dairy farmers, who couldn’t fathom why we’d raid the pasture for skeletons and but eventually humored these eccentric artists in their rural community, and the occasional triumphant wild-boar hunter. There is no better material than bone to adorn a sustainable food advocate for the coming fall season: celebrate the triumph of sustainable agriculture over commodity injustices in food and farms—and look beautiful at the same time! (Click photo to enlarge, or check out the photo gallery of jewelry being modeled by Soul Food fans.)
Hb1: Elegant Tea-stained cow bone necklace with lamb-bone close, fishing twine crochet and two pairs of complementary earrings; plus one pair of plain bone-finish earrings and one pair of black vegetable dyed bone earrings ($250 retail value | $150 minimum | Winning bid: $200)
HB2: Bold tea-stained cow bone necklace with lamb-bone close, fishing twine crochet and two pairs of complementary earrings; plus one pair of plain bone-finish earrings and one pair of black vegetable dyed bone earrings ($250 retail value | $150 minimum | Winning bid: $175)

All jammed up (JT1)
A space in one of master preservist June Taylor’s often sold-out 2009-2010 preserve-making classes. These intimate, daylong hands-on classes concentrate on the principles and processes of making conserves and the experiential nature of preserving fruit. Topics include evaluation and selection of fruit, stages of preparation, working without commercial pectin, cooking and jarring of the conserve. ($175 minimum | Winning bid: $225)

Bay Area getaway (ODH1)
Escape from the city Sunday through Thursday at the Olema Druids Hall, a luxury inn located less than an hour from San Francisco, overlooking the rural town of Olema and bordering the Point Reyes parklands. Choose one night in the luxurious 1,000 sq ft Grand Suite (comfortable living room, wood-burning fireplace, an open dining area, a gourmet kitchen with a Viking range, and a generous separate bedroom overlooking the town of Olema and the rural surroundings) or two nights in the Nest, a second-floor guest room with large windows providing views of the Olema valley’s rolling hills and tree-lined ridges, a bathroom featuring a relaxing extra large classic shower and a custom marble sink. ($385-$420 retail value | $200 minimum | Winning bid: $350)

Enough already, I am ready to bid! > >

Private Dinners

Personal-chef-for-a-day (RA1)
Experience the ease of having a personal-chef-for-a-day and find out how relaxing eating at home can truly be! Rebecca Alonzi, owner and chef of Seasonal Elegance Culinary Services,will create a custom prepared dinner for two or one prepared family meal for four (your choice). Certificate includes custom menu planning and consultation, shopping, cooking and clean-up. Special requests, exotic preferences and health needs gladly accommodated! Certificate valid for one year following auction, limited to locations no greater than 20 miles outside of San Francisco to be redeemed on a mutually agreeable date. Cost of groceries not included. Rebecca is a local personal chef who specializes in Mediterranean, Italian and French preparations, utilizing top quality local ingredients and slow-food preparations. Her culinary career has included several fine restaurants in San Francisco, including training at Quince, a Michelin-starred French Italian restaurant, while completing college level classes in Hospitality Management and Culinary Arts. Her company, Seasonal Elegance, has been providing premium culinary services in the greater Bay Area for the last three and a half years. Currently, Rebecca cooks for a private household, can be seen at Epic Roasthouse and also works as a culinary instructor for Graze the Roof garden project teaching inner-city kids about the joys of cooking locally-grown food. ($300 minimum)

Wired and wonderful (PF1): Dinner for six at your Bay Area home by Phil Ferrato, the chef at the San Francisco offices of Condé Nast’s Wired magazine. Believe it or not, Phil isn’t into molecular gastronomy, preferring local, organic hearty tastiness. (Read blog post about his philosophy and check out his latest how-to video, on pretzels.) Wine not included. (Retail $600 | $400 minimum)

You’ve got Soul (MLS1): Multi-course private dinner for 4 built around Soul Food Farm products with wine pairings by Melissa Lavrinc Smith, private chef, sommelier, host of SF WineChef and author of Inked Rogue Chefs. ($400 minimum | Winning bid: $400)

A visit from the Charcuterix (RZ1): Dinner for up to 10 cooked in your home by Rachael Zavala — the best damned Junior College Culinary Arts student in the history of culinary arts! Called “The Charcuterix” by friend and foe alike, and having done a dissertation on Bortolemeo Scappi, a 16th Century Papal chef, she is well prepared to cure up the pancetta AND fry it up in a pan… or throw a fully costumed dinner party for the Pope and any visiting courtesans who might be in town! Rachael will come to your East Bay/Walnut Creek home on the night of your choosing and cook an Italian feast of homemade antipasti, charcuterie, pasta, and Old World Venetian fare fit for royalty. (No minimum: “I’m an unknown culinary student; I just think this would be fun!” | Winning bid: $265)

Enough already, I am ready to bid! > >

Food, Drink & Fine Art

Pretty pecktures (EA1 & EA2)
Signed (verso), framed prints of Soul Food Farm chickens from the San Francisco Magazine cover shoot (left) by Ed Anderson. Prints are archival pigment prints on fiber-based paper (approx 200-year life span), in black wood frames with acid-free mats under acrylic UV filter glazing. We will ship these within U.S. for an additional shipping charge.
(EA1) Chicken and egg on white background, 14×14″ ($100 minimum | Winning bid: $200)
(EA2) Chicken on black background, 12×15″ ($100 minimum | Winning bid: $200)

Feeling piggy (FC1): One whole Fatted Calf porchetta, 15 lbs (Retails for $250 | $100 minimum | Winning bid: $125)

Napa’s finest (NF1): Six magnums (1.5 L) of Havens, Renard, Frog’s Leap, Patz & Hall, Elyse, and Cardinale offered by the winemakers at each winery, organized by winemaker Michael Havens ($930 retail | $450 minimum | Winning bid: $550):

• Cardinale 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (Chris Carpenter)
• Havens 1999 Napa Valley Syrah (Michael Havens)
• Patz & Hall 2006 Hyde Vineyard Carneros Chardonnay (James Hall)
• Frog’s Leap 2006 Rutherford Merlot (John Williams)
• Elyse 2006 Morisoli Vineyard Zinfandel (Ray Coursen)
• Renard 1998 Timbervine Russian River Valley Syrah (Bayard Fox)

“Untitled” (MD1; left)
Feeling sheepish? Unframed archival fine art print by local artist Meagan Donegan. 24″x34″ (Minimum $200 | Winning bid: $250)

Larkmead trio (LV1): Vertical of 2004, 2005 and 2006 Larkmead Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon made by acclaimed winemaker Andy Smith. Variously described by Robert Parker as “the talented Scotsman” and “a superstar,” Andy particularly enjoys the diversity of soils, varieties and clones at Larkmead, which enable him to craft stylish, complex wines reflective of this historic site. (Minimum $150 | Winning bid: $150)

“2.4.09, Lauren” (LW1; right)
Unframed archival signed print, 11.5×17.25 in) by photographer Lisa Wiseman ($600 unframed | Minimum $150)

KL1: [Moved to raffle]

[LATE ENTRY!!!] Bling from the City of Angels (EC1; left): Turquoise and carnelian necklace with heart-shaped charm of sterling silver and garnet by Erica Courtney, a boutique jewelry maker in Los Angeles whose work adorns many Hollywood celebrities. Necklace will be shipped to winner. (Retail value $450 | $50 minimum | Winning bid: $127)

“Diaphanous Flock” and “Blue Bird” (KO1; right)
Two unframed art prints auctioned together by Karen Ondracek, about 6×8″each ($25 minimum | Winning bid: $50)

Feeling really piggy (CSF1): A suckling pig (20-25 lbs) from Clark Summit Farm in Tomales for your Thanksgiving dinner. Must pick up from farm. ($75 minimum | Winning bid: $128.87)

“Estuary II” (PW1; right)
Recycled caste glass piece created by Napa glass artist Patti Wessman, who is trying to keep broken window pane and bottles out of the landfill. See her website for examples of her pieces. ($500 retail | Minimum $100 | Winning bid: $150)

Pearl and silver jewelry set by local artist Melissa Schneider (MS1): Handmade necklace featuring silvery-grey freshwater pearls intricately wound with sterling silver and linked to faceted black tourmaline, plus matching handmade earrings. Custom antique finish on sterling silver. (Retail $175 | $40 minimum | Winning bid: $150)

Enough already, I am ready to bid! > >

Healthy Services

TC1: Hour-long appointment with Tom Cowan, a holistic physician in San Francisco, and a copy of his book, Fourfold Path to Healing. ($120 minimum | Winning bid: $120)

KP1: A naturopathic new-patient visit with Karen Peters. Dr. Peters is a licensed naturopathic doctor who can offer a holistic perspective on any health issue or work with you on optimizing your health. She uses natural therapies such as herbal medicine, nutritional counseling, and homeopathy. ($240 value | $120 minimum)

RT1: Six-session wellness coaching package with wellness coach and certified nutritional counselor Rebecca Tryon (blog) ($300 value | $150 minimum)

KR1: A two-hour financial planning consultation or $250 credit against the fee for preparation of an income tax return with Ken Roberts, an Enrolled Agent and CFP practitioner with more than 35 years in the field, in Sebastopol ($100 minimum )

Now I am REALLY ready to bid! > >

I’m very in love with this farm, every tree, every inch of pasture, all the crazy chickens and all the space to make new dreams.

We have had ourselves buried in work all week but have read every email, every letter, and listen to every phone message. It amazes me that so many people knew about it. It never occurred to me how far our eggs and chickens had traveled. Sometimes, it is overwhelming to me how much people love Soul Food Farm.

Our good neighbors Bill and Fern, who own Sunny Slope Farm, are helping us set up some quick irrigation in the olive orchard , and Matthew and Terces who own Be Love Farm are lending their new seed driller and irrigation pipe to get us back on track. I see waves of grass bending in the breeze very soon, and hungry chickens pecking away. And to make it even better (at least to me),  I’m learning quite a lot about seed depth, pounds of seed per acre, and how to operate this new equipment. And to bring it all full circle, the seed comes from Laura Trent , who farmed off of Pleasants Valley Road. Laura was an amazing farmer and somehow, even though she died two years ago, manages to keep helping me out.

Eric is working nonstop, Today he will make a hundred trips to Ace Hardware to find all we need to fix the pumps and irrigation line and get that water flowing to the olive field. Next is organizing the plans and purchases to buy materials to rebuild the chicken houses that burned down. We have a workday planned for next weekend (see Bonnie’s post below), and I for one will be happy to see other faces here besides our own.

Soul Food Farm belongs to everyone now, and people working and helping and eating together will make it all seem more hopeful.

We continue to do our everyday chores, and I appreciate the routine. New baby chicks arrived on Friday. Two very loving friends did the egg deliveries this week. We are moving the remaining meat birds over to the front of the farm and redesigning our layout to accommodate all these birds at the front of the property.

Thank you to everyone for all the help you are giving to two very tired farmers, who for one brief moment thought they were finished. Now, with so much concern extended to us, it would be selfish to not get back up and try again.

My dear friend Kathryn wrote to me, “Feet on the ground, chin up.” That is our new motto.

We had a frank talk about what Soul Food Farm needs to survive. Primarily it is cash. Like most small farms, they were operating without a safety net. The Soul Food Farm Fire Fund via PayPal has received a wonderful number of donations,  more than 60 so far, ranging from $5 to $200. Every little bit counts, so thank you. (You can donate by clicking this link to PayPal; those who dislike PayPal can also mail a check made out to Soul Food Farm to 6046 Pleasants Valley Rd., Vacaville, CA 95688.)

Here are the most pressing farm needs, in order:

Irrigation equipment installation: As nearly all of the back pastures used for raising the meat birds are now charred to pieces, Eric and Alexis need to move the remaining birds and get prepared for the chicks that are at various stages of pasture-readiness. They have pasture at the front of the property but it is currently quite dry and needs irrigation. To get that set up will require an immediate investment of sprinklers, pumps, hoses, etc. If anyone has a contact at a local agricultural company that might be willing to donate such equipment, or give a discount, great, or if you’ve installed irrigation systems before and can volunteer labor, let me know and I will put you in touch with Eric, who knows what Soul Food needs.

Chicken house building: Two burned down and others were damaged. The chicks are in temporary houses and as they grow, will need to be moved to make room for the next batches coming through. (Soul Food receives 600 chicks every week.) Alexis estimates that they will need to build at least two houses within the next two weeks at a rough cost of $2,000 each. They could definitely use skilled volunteer labor (particularly those who own their own tools) in addition to cash for materials; providing lunch for hte work crew would also be appreciated. Email me if you would like to help (put Soul Food Farm in the subject line), and I will let you know when the work days will be. My husband and I will be there for them with our pneumatic nailers and screwguns.

Income shortfall makeup: The 1,000 meat chicks Soul Food lost in the fire represent half a month’s lost income. In about 6 weeks, all the birds currently on the farm will have matured and been harvested and the next ones won’t be ready for two weeks. This a considerably amount of money the farm will not have to cover ongoing feed and labor expenses. It will be crippling. In addition, the fire has traumatized the laying hens and egg production is naturally down and will remain so for a while. The best way for us to tackle this is through bigger fundraisers than the PayPal fund. We need to get these scheduled and start selling tickets to them right away.

HOW YOU CAN HELP:

Assist with the fundraising benefit dinners: A couple of dinners are in the pipeline, with chefs/venues in San Francisco and Berkeley. We have someone wanting to organize one in Solano County who needs a restaurant venue. Here’s what else we need for these:

• Local produce/meat/etc. donations: Farmers, we can work with your seconds, anything you can spare.
• Wine/beer/spirits: Local producers, we’d love any and all donations. Give us your messed-up labels, your discontinued lines.
• Labor: Do you work in a restaurant and are willing to be a volunteer prep cook or server? Or are you super organized and can help me wrangle volunteers? Get in touch.

Donate items for the auction and raffle: Chef and local-food-pillar Samin Nosrat and I are planning at least one associated auction for one of the benefit dinners and an effort-wide raffle. Everyone who has donated money or products/services will be eligible for the raffle, and we will also be selling tickets to the general public. Here are some of the items we are hoping to either auction or raffle off:

• Special high-value items to auction: For example, personal chef services, private winery tours, photography & Web design services, cooking & butchery lessons, hotel stays, lunch with celebrity, etc.
• Gift certificates to restaurants, stores, farmers market stands
• Subscriptions
• Signed copies of cookbooks
• Cooking equipment
• Be creative — if you’re not sure what you have to offer, email me!

Thanks, everybody. That’s it from me …  for now.

—Bonnie (Alexis’s friend and soon-to-be CSA manager)
bonnie@bonniepowell.com

Current efforts under way to help Soul Food Farm get back on its (pointy) feet after this terrible setback:

Soul Food Farm Fire Fund: To help get Soul Food Farm access to cash, whether for rebuilding the chicken houses and ordering enough replacement birds to meet their obligations to their existing customers or frankly whatever, with her reluctant permission I’ve set up a PayPal donation account in Alexis’s name, under the new email account firefund@soulfoodfarm.com. Please consider donating whatever you can spare via the PayPal button. You can also go to Paypal.com and send a donation directly via the preceding email address. [Update: Don't be alarmed if PayPal says the account is not yet verified; I need to get Alexis to fill in some details. Also, please note that those who dislike PayPal can also mail a check made out to Soul Food Farm to 6046 Pleasants Valley Rd., Vacaville, CA 95688.]

Benefit Dinners:

The wonderful Sam Mogannam of Bi-Rite Market is working on a dinner to be held at 18 Reasons, the market’s community center. Details to come.

Samin Nosrat, former sous chef of the sadly shuttered Eccolo, and I are putting together a fundraiser involving a formal dinner ($$$) and informal hors d’oeuvres reception ($). Michael Pollan has kindly agreed to speak at it if his schedule permits. There will likely be an associated auction and raffle. We tentatively have a venue but are looking for meat, produce, and wine/alcohol donations, auction/raffle donations (restaurant gift certificates, hotel stays, anything), volunteer crowd wranglers, etc. Please email me if you would like to help (put Soul Food Benefit in the subject line).

More to come as I hear about it.